The Pumphouse, Durham

Apr 6 2008 by Eddy Eats, Sunday Sun

THE last time Mrs Eats and I found ourselves at the Pumphouse on the outskirts of Durham we described it as a scranning treasure.

We stumbled upon this little place back in September 2005 after a day wandering around the historic city streets. It is always an unexpected bonus in life when you stumble across a fine eaterie by chance, but returning to the same place can be fraught with disappointment as the level of expectation is so high.

As we drove to the secluded little establishment shrouded by trees and nestled on the banks of the River Wear, things looked pretty much the same.

We walked from the car park towards the former 19th-century pumping station and could hear music being played in the delightful garden area, which only added to the hideaway’s relaxed atmosphere.

Once inside, we were given the option of having a drink at the bar or heading straight to our table . . . Mrs E, always one to get stuck into her scran, decided we should opt for the latter.

We were led to a table dressed in fine linen tablecloths and silverware and perused the menu. She-Who-Must-Be-Fed opted for a mackerel and prawn risotto for her starter, followed by lamb, while I ordered the butternut squash soup and beef.

We had a short wait while our starters were brought out but, once they were, we both tucked in with gusto.

Mrs Eats whole-heartedly approved of her risotto, and my soup was lovely . . . so much so that I mopped up every last drop with crusty bread.

We had a longer wait for our main course but it gave us time to take in the dramatic decor of the converted industrial station.

When the main course did arrive we were not disappointed. There was plenty of meat on both our plates, along with boiled and roasted potatoes and a generously sized Yorkshire pudding which had obviously been made by the kitchen staff and not taken out of a packet.

The sauce in which both the lamb and beef were served was fantastic. If the chef was to put it into production and sell it in jars it would fly off every supermarket shelf in the country.

The only thing which let the meal down was the roast potatoes . . . unforgivable in mine and Mrs E’s eyes. Our roasties — instead of being fluffy on the inside and crispy on the outside — were simply undercooked.

I wouldn’t expect undercooked potatoes in the most cheap and cheerful of pubs but to find them in an upmarket establishment like this was a major no-no.

Undercooked potatoes aside, the meal was very good and so filling that we couldn’t manage dessert.

All in all, the Pumphouse is well worth a visit and, if the staff can sort out their roasties, there won’t be anything to complain about.

Two courses at the Pumphouse will cost £15 and if, unlike Mrs E and I, you can manage a third, that price will rise to £19.50.

THE PUMPHOUSE Durham.Rating: 15/20