Anchor Inn, Whittonstall

Oct 19 2008 by Eddy Eats, Sunday Sun

Whittonstall,
County Durham.
TELEPHONE 01207-561110

Rating: 15/20

IT’S probably only a matter of time before some of the region’s more isolated pubs fall foul of the credit crunch.

Many rely heavily on the Sunday lunch trade to bolster their profits through the week, when business is much quieter.

But as the recession bites, it’s feared more people will choose to cut back on luxuries such as eating out and opt to cook for themselves.

As a champion of pub fayre, I sincerely hope the region’s hidden gems can weather the storm. It would be a disaster if we all became budding Jamie Olivers to the detriment of the good old village boozer.

I’m confident, however, that no such fate awaits the Anchor Inn.

The pub is located in the laid-back village of Whittonstall, a mere pinprick on the map near the border of Northumberland and County Durham.

If you’re a keen cyclist, walker or regular visitor to nearby reservoir Derwent Water, you may be familiar with it. Otherwise, it’s likely to have passed you by.

However, Mrs Eats and I know the place well. We were last here almost four years ago and, although it had much to recommend, we were somewhat perplexed as to why the car park was so full.

Since our last visit, the pub appears to have had something of a revamp and, while its original charm has been retained, it has a more contemporary feel.

The main restaurant area is large and spacious with an especially high ceiling, but don’t let that put you off because, thanks to the real fire, natural stone walls and wooden beams, it still manages to feel homely.

On the day of our visit there was a good mix of families and couples of all ages enjoying the relaxed atmosphere, giving the place a pleasant, conversational buzz.

A good choice of starters led me to plump for something slightly unusual — goats cheese in filo pastry with a forest fruit coulis — while She-Who-Must-Be-Fed played it safe with homemade vegetable soup.

Mrs E declared her soup delicious, although she felt the serving could have been bigger. I have to say I felt the same way about my starter.

But, while there wasn’t much of it for the £4.95 price tag, it was nevertheless excellent . . . the crisp filo contrasting wonderfully with the rich, creamy cheese and tangy coulis. The missus was also taking no chances with her main course and settled for roast chicken with all the trimmings, which in this case amounted to Yorkshire pudding, roast and boiled potatoes and some rather tasty stuffing.

Together with her soup starter, it cost £7.95 . . . an inflation-busting price if ever I saw one.

I opted for a leg of lamb steak served on potatoes — described as crushed, rather than mashed — and garlic.

The lamb was deliciously tender, the juices permeating the garlicky potatoes and making them even more scrumptious. But at £10.95 it was rather pricey.

Our meals came with a separate helping of cauliflower, cabbage and carrots, which we shared.

As the mains were very filling, neither of us felt the need to put our waistlines under additional pressure with a pudding, even though the selection was tempting.

Instead, I sat back and enjoyed the rest of my pint of Cameron’s Bitter which, though not especially strong, was packed with flavour, while Mrs E quaffed a fruity red wine.

Without doubt, there’s something for everyone on The Anchor’s menu, from old favourites to dishes with a contemporary twist, and many ingredients are locally sourced. And, so long as they serve up food like this, I reckon the credit crunch can’t touch them.

:: The Anchor Inn is located in the centre of Whittonstall. From the A1, take the A694 turn off at Swalwell and follow signs for Consett and Shotley Bridge. However, once you reach Ebchester — about 10 miles — turn right onto the B6309 and continue for about two miles until you arrive at Whittonstall.