Tankerville Arms, Eglingham, Alnwick

Jun 21 2009 by Eddy Eats, Sunday Sun

MAYBE it’s been the recent glorious weather but the better half has been in an adventurous mood lately when it comes to choosing her places to scran.

Upon waking to a splendid summer’s day last weekend, Mrs E said she’d like to try out somewhere where we had not been for ages, if possible out in the countryside.

I had heard good things from the lads at work about the grub at the Tankerville Arms in Eglingham, up just past Alnwick. They’d mentioned the pub’s mouthwatering British food, with just an occasional international twist and good value so suggested this as our destination.

Of course taking the motor all the way to deepest Northumberland would mean that garden tidy-up would have to wait a day or two!

We rang to book a table for lunch as, pleasant a drive though it is, we didn’t fancy an hour in the trusty eatsmobile only to discover there was no room at the inn.

We found the Tankerville Arms about quarter of an hour’s drive north west of Alnwick, slap bang in the middle of a traditonal Northumbrian village.

Having parked right outside the old coaching inn, full of character, we were welcomed with genuine Northumbrian hospitality by the staff.

Both inside and out the pub is unspoilt and far removed from the chain pubs which seem to spring up all over the place these days.

We were shown through to the restaurant and our window table, which was set out beautifully with real napkins, wine glasses and shiny cutlery.

The quaint inn boasts authentic oak rafters and fantastic wooden floors and the décor is fairly quirky with animal-themed antiques and books to peruse over a pint or two. Mrs E was particularly taken with Mrs Lanercoste’s 1879 work, “Wild Flowers worth Notice”!

Meals are served in the pub and tables can be reserved in the restaurant area. The food is Northumbrian in character with fresh local produce much in evidence, but also quite modern in interpretation and maybe a bit risque for our taste. To start, She Who Must Be Fed plumped for the aubergine salad with pitta bead and yoghurt, which was light, fresh, and flavoursome.

I looked forward to my duck liver pate with plum chutney but was disappointed by the texture, which was too runny and more like a mayonnaise than the proper rustic pate I’d expected.

A decent pint of real ale raised the spirits for the main course and complimented my steak in Black Sheep ale pie. The pie was crammed with quality meat but lacked a bit of flavour with more seasoning or herbs required in my opinion. Served as an individual pie in a dish, it came with a horseradish mash that was spot on.

Mrs Eats’s roast chicken Sunday dinner was standard fare and again maybe a little bland. The food is not the cheapest you’ll come across and although there isn’t a turkey twizzler in sight, you might expect a little more of that all-important X-factor for the price.

We were both hoping for a culinary treat from the “Exquisitely rich chocolate pudding” only to be let down again by a blandness to the dessert. The title conjured up visions of a rich and dense, dark chocolate assault on the tastebuds, but the reality was a pale imitation, mild and too light for a naughty pudding treat.

The lovely location, interesting interior and proper hospitality make the Tankerville Arms a civilised choice for your Sunday lunch but more effort is needed from the kitchen to make it top notch.