I've been seduced by the Spirit

May 26 2007 By Chloe Griffiths, The Journal

That first glimpse of the fabled city of Petra - the giant rose-red creation of a long-departed people - peeking through a cleft in the narrow gorge which acts as both entrance and guardian is, quite simply, unforgettable.

Craning to see between the towering cliffs of its runway, the one-mile long Siq, desperate to catch that first sighting of the ancient home of the Nabataeans, it seemed to take forever.

Then suddenly it emerged from the shadows.

Just a hint at first; the outline of an arch, a pillar peeking through the crack between the 80-metre rock walls running like a guard of an honour at either side.

Then gradually with each step the towering creation of the Al-Khazneh - a 2,000-year-old treasury 43-metres high hewn into the rock - filled my vision as I emerged into the streaming daylight though the only entrance to the once-lost empire of Petra.

I could have been looking at a picture, watching a film (certainly it has had its moments of glory on the big screen - think Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade).

That was until a horde of chattering tourists stepped into the image, and shattered the illusion that I had stepped into a forgotten world.

In spite of the babbling crowds and predictable wave of hawkers dangling cheap necklaces and statues, no picture can quite prepare you for the enormous, magnificent beauty of Petra.

Covering more than 30sq miles this unique city carved into every visible hill and undulation of an almost lunar landscape is vast.

It stretches as far as the eye can see - elaborate tombs with intricate carvings, a 3,000-seater amphitheatre, obelisks, temples, altars and colonnaded streets, overlooked by the Ad-Deir monastery, all etched into the dusky pink rock.

Yet despite the almost mind-boggling magnitude of this long-hidden site, it remains 70% undiscovered.

Indeed, I am told, it takes four or five days to really explore the entire valley - yet I was given less than five hours.

Just five short hours to spend at a site that surely must be chosen as one of the new seven wonders of the world.

It seemed unjust. But that was far from the case.

For despite being surrounded by this other-worldly landscape, barren and arid, my visit to Petra was the just the first of many tantalising stops … on a week-long cruise.

Now it is probably best if I confess straight off that I am a cruise virgin.

I've preferred to get into my own scrapes - think independent rather than molly-coddled.

But this cruise was, frankly, too good to refuse.

Before my departure the oft-heard mantra "the beauty of cruising is that the journey IS the holiday" was repeatedly voiced in my direction.

And yes, it sounded nice, but to be honest it didn't really come into the equation.

Any trip which offered not only Petra, but the awe-inspiring temples of Luxor and Karnak, the underwater delights of the Red Sea and the pyramids of Giza crammed into a week had my vote - no matter how the journey was made.

But I was soon to learn the error of my ways.

Arriving at the Spirit of Adventure - my floating home for a week - at the Jordanian port of Aqaba I was cynical.

Disembarking just a swift seven days later in Limassol, Cyprus, having traversed the Gulf of Aqaba, the Red Sea, the Suez Canal and the Med, soaking up a veritable treasure trove of delights, I was sold.

By day three - and a staggering visit to the stunning temple complexes of Luxor and Karnak and a tour down the beautifully preserved hieroglyphic-adorned tombs of the Valley of the Kings - molly-coddled had been exchanged for stress-free. Independent for a-bit-like-hard-work.

By day four, and a trip to marvel at the delights of the Red Sea, I had come to the conclusion there is something to be said for having water provided, guides on tap and a toilet always handy.

The most stressful decision I was stretched to all week was pondering where to eat, which bar to drink at, and which evening entertainment to enjoy before settling down under the crisp, clean sheets while the crew ensured we made steady progress towards our destination.

Waking at a new and exciting location is always a joy, but there is something to be said for arising after a comfortable night's kip rocked to sleep, as opposed to emerging bleary-eyed after a never-quite--comfortable 12-hour bus journey.

And the Spirit is all about comfort. By cruising standards it is small, catering for just 352 passengers.

It is rather like a friendly Northumberland town - small enough everyone knows your name but big enough to keep you thoroughly enthralled.

And with more than 200 staff to welcome you, guide you and help you every step of the way the personal touch is guaranteed.

The cabins are attractively decorated and as comfortable as a hotel room, but with an attention to detail normally lacking - binoculars laid out, the day by day itinerary, daily newsletter and even the towels laid out to welcome you back to your private haven.

And the food. Ah, the food! Suffice to say executive chef George Streeter ensured I left the ship at least half a stone heavier after gorging on everything from haggis, giant Mozambican prawns, kudu and lobster.

While those who have a less adventurous palate need not worry - every allergy is provided for and every taste catered for.

Laden with a cinema under the stars, gym, sauna and spa, beauty salon, a library comfortable enough and big enough to immerse yourself in for a week, a pool and sun decks there are plenty of ways to pass an idle-moment without eating.

An extensive DVD collection, lectures on the region you are passing through, evening entertainment and a weekly cocktail party also ensure there is always something to be doing.

Indeed I felt like I had barely scratched the surface by the time I had stepped off.

But that as the soft Irish burr of Captain Martin Breen frequently informed me over the intercom system is the beauty of cruising.

"You can do as much or as little as you like.

"But whatever you do, ladies and gentleman, have a very nice day" he would purr first thing in the morning, as I was still coming to terms with the early hour I was having to rise if I was to enjoy the ancient wonders of Cairo, after a few too many cocktails the night before.

Of course, I could have stayed on board - here, I have discovered lies the quandary of cruising.

The journey is made so enjoyable that you could almost forget it is the stops which made you chose the holiday in the first place.

Almost, but not quite.

And that is where the Spirit really sells itself, for while I could easily continue to extol the virtues of the Mysteries of Egypt and Jordan - I fear I would only leave you disappointed. For my fascinating trip may never be repeated.

While the Spirit's smaller size enables it to visit ports other ships cannot, it also chooses to be different.

It sells itself as offering innovative trips for an adventurous cruising market, and a vital component of that is its unique itineraries.

My new-found town doesn't do repetition, instead it floats around the globe on a never-ending journey.

Visitors to its decks before me had taken in the sights, sounds and smells of the coast of Africa, those after me were treated to a tour of the best of the Med, before the crew and those who had, quite wisely, elected to stay on-board continued on to the Fjords and the pearls of the Baltic

This Christmas those aboard my floating town will see Argentina and Antarctica before the Galapagos Islands.

Did I say molly-coddled? Suddenly independent sounds a bit tiring.

I just hope there is room for me.

Travelfacts

Spirit of Adventure offers adults, aged 21 or over, a cruise with the emphasis on learning and discovery and the opportunity of visiting the smaller and less frequently visited ports.

The 352-passenger ship has a contemporary yacht-like feel and offers a diverse range of destinations, and innovative itineraries. These cruises of discovery all feature a choice of excursions at most ports included in the price, while the services of expert on-board guest speakers bring the cruise experience to life.

In addition the ship has one of the best libraries afloat, with a selection of over 3,000 books, and a range of exciting activities including scuba diving, jeep safaris and mountain biking, add to the cruising experience.

For the majority of Spirit of Adventure cruises you fly to the ship and you can do this from a range of UK airports, while some cruises sail direct from the UK.

Inspirational destinations include the Mediterranean, the spice harbours of the Caribbean, and the dramatic scenery of Antarctica.

In many destinations there is the opportunity to see more of a region before or after your cruise with a great range of hotel stays and overland tours.

www.spiritofadventure.co.uk or call 0800 300 432 to request a brochure.

Upcoming trips include:

Mediterranean Gems, the Vineyards of Spain and Portugal and the Splendour of the Fjords.

Wine-lovers are particular well-catered for with four new itineraries visiting the most famous vineyards of Spain, France and Portugal combined with the chance to visit the region's most fascinating cities this summer.

Guests will delve deeper into the history, culture and processes behind wine-making, with trips to wineries, expert guides and on-board tastings.

Later in the year cruisers can experience the Spice Harbours of the Caribbean, an Amazon Adventure and Christmas in Antarctica, while at the beginning of next year the Magic of the Galapagos Islands is explored.