Vegas isn’t all stakes and chips

Mar 9 2008 Sunday Sun

POKER fan TONY LARNER takes a gamble on Las Vegas’s growing reputation for fine dining

HIS cunning snake-like eyes were staring me down from across our Las Vegas table.

I could smell a bluff from miles off . . . but this time I wasn’t so sure.

I felt a tiny trickle of perspiration on my brow. “OK. Let’s go,” I said. “I’m all in.”

“Ha!” said my opponent in triumph, as he pushed across what he thought was a winning hand . . . a 24-tier chocolate cake.

After a few minutes trying to gorge my way through it, I conceded defeat and stumbled away from the dining room, a near-broken man.

I had travelled to Las Vegas in search of the city that never sleeps . . . and found instead a city that always eats!

Say Vegas and most people will think of the casinos and the gambling, the glitz and the glamour.

Yet the desert destination is fast building a reputation as one of the best places to dine in the world, with Michelin-starred chefs now working all along the Strip.

I was invited to spend a few days in Vegas, sampling dishes at the hippest of restaurants and five-star hotels.

I’d always wanted to visit Las Vegas, a desire fuelled by my love of no limit Texas hold ’em poker.

Trouble was, airline bmi had kindly invited me on a trip entitled Las Vegas: A Culinary Experience.

But a scan of our itinerary showed that I could eat during the day and evening . . . then play poker through the small hours. Result!

Looking out of the plane’s window as we arrived, I was astonished to see our spectacular first hotel, Mandalay Bay, just a few hundred metres from the terminal building.

And when we arrived in the hotel reception, the sheer size and opulence brought a Cheshire Cat smile to my face.

A quick dash to my huge room — more of a rock star suite — then I legged it back down to the casino floor for my first bet of the trip . . . 10 minutes later, after winning and losing some blackjack hands, I was $40 up!

There was no time to build on my winnings, though, as we met up for a spa refresher at the Bathhouse. It boasts steam rooms and saunas, as well as 12 treatment rooms where you can enjoy massages, wraps and facials. I had a massage that proved the perfect tonic for easing any aching muscles after a long flight.

Our first evening saw us enjoy dinner at TAO Asian Bistro at the amazing Venetian hotel, where fake gondoliers sail down fake canals.

This is one the hottest dining spots in town, offering spicy dishes, succulent king prawns and the freshest of fish.

We finished the night with cocktails at miX, a nightspot 64 floors above Mandalay Bay, offering breathtaking views of The Strip, and superb cocktails.

Fully-fed and nicely merry, I bade my colleagues goodnight and headed for the poker room. I thought I was a decent player. Now was the ultimate test as I pitted my game against Vegas.

A short time later, I was leaving the poker room, my wallet considerably lighter after being chewed up and spat out by the best the city had to offer.

I headed for bed, realising this could be a very expensive trip.

Next morning, we breakfasted at Payard Patisserie & Bistro at Caesars Palace. A top tip here . . . try the blueberry muffins, you won’t be disappointed. This was followed by a visit to Qua spa. I had a full body massage from a skilful Hawaiian masseur who left me so relaxed that I became giddy-headed.

Qua also boasts a steam room, Roman baths and an Arctic ice room where real snowflakes fall. Only in Vegas!

After our pampering, we had lunch at Diablo’s Cantina, where I stuffed down spicy Mexican dishes and tequila cocktails. This trip was becoming hard work!

An afternoon of sightseeing was followed by dinner at Strip House at Planet Hollywood, where I ate a prime cut of beef cooked to perfection, accompanied by side dishes of black truffle creamed spinach, goose fat potatoes, and creamed corn with pancetta. I somehow managed to clear my plate, but was defeated by that 24-tier chocolate cake.

My second night at the poker room saw me fare much better, thanks to a pair of pocket kings and queens, and I headed back to my room even on the trip.

Breakfast next morning was at Bouchon at the Venetian, offering delicious authentic French bistro fare in yet more beautiful surroundings.

Lunch followed at the Tuscany Kitchen at Bellagio, with a full chef’s presentation that passed on some culinary secrets.

We then checked into the five-star Wynn, one of the newest and biggest hotels in Vegas and also one of the most exclusive.

That night we enjoyed a main course of refined Cantonese, Shanghai and Szechuan cooking styles. Our party ended the night at the exclusive Blush Boutique Nightclub . . . a favoured celeb haunt.

Our final breakfast was at Tableau, in Wynn, where I wolfed down some proper American cuisine . . . crispy bacon and eggs over easy. Then, all too quickly, it was time to check out and leave.

My first visit to this city had lived up to all the hype and I was leaving with a very full belly and, against the odds, a fair bit of cash still in my wallet.

My trip home was the perfect ending as I was in bmi’s excellent Business Class.

As well as our own chef offering us a final culinary treat, we were in seats that could be converted into comfortable beds at the push of a button. Bliss!

TONY stayed at the Mandalay Bay and Wynn hotels in Las Vegas. Visit www.mandalaybay.com and www.wynnlasvegas.com for full information and prices.

HEAD to www.visitlasvegas.co.uk or call 0870-523 8832 for a free destination guide packed with accommodation and attraction choices, advice and information.

BMI currently flies direct from Manchester to Las Vegas three times a week. Flights depart on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday from Manchester. The business cabin features both an onboard chef and flat beds. Fares start from £589 in economy — return, including taxes — for travel in March, May, June, August, September and October. For further information or to book, visit the website at www.flybmi.com or call the long-haul reservations centre on 0870-607 0222.

HIT the Eyecandy Sound Lounge at Mandalay Bay, where interactive tables let you link up with the DJ, who can select tunes from your iPod.

VISIT Madame Tussauds, and “meet” the likes of John Wayne and Muhammad Ali.

PICK up some bargains, including Nike trainers for just £15, at Premium Outlets Stores.

TRY breakfast at Carnival World Buffet at the Rio Hotel & Casinos, offering 300 hot and cold dishes prepared fresh daily.

TAKE an excursion to see the spectacular Grand Canyon and test your bravery on the “Skywalk”.